If you like garlic, the period between September and November is the best time to plant.
King Tut was buried with it. Greek Olympic athletes believed eating garlic gave them courage and competitive strength. It was used in the area that became Transylvania for its power in repelling mosquitoes (giving rise, perhaps, to the later theory that it repelled vampires.)
Louis Pasteur discovered that garlic juice worked as well as penicillin in killing microbes. Chemical compounds in garlic actually do kill salmonella and staphylococcus bacteria.
However, until relatively recently, garlic (Allium sativa) was shunned in England, North America and parts of northern Europe.
If you’re a believer in garlic, as well as a proponent of its flavor adding (and possible healing) qualities, and want to grow it, follow some easy guidelines.
- Garlic is a perennial, prefers full sun and fertile, well-drained soil.
- Type of soil doesn’t really matter. Garlic is hardy and will grow well in a variety of soil types.
- It likes organic matter in the soil, which itself is a good reason to grow entirely organic garlic. Add four to six inches of compost in the planting area and work into the soil.
- Plant between September and November. During the winter, the plant will establish a root system, but top growth won’t occur until spring (or, in more temperate climes, whenever the weather warms). Large tops = large bulbs.
- If at any time the plant develops a flowering head, clip it off. Flowering heads steal energy from the plant.
- Garlic cloves should be planted one to three inches deep and six to 10 inches apart. Closer and the plants will be crowded and will produce smaller bulbs.
- Planting in rows make it simpler, but that’s not necessary. Many gardeners intersperse garlic among their ornamentals, with the idea that it helps repel harmful insects.
- Mulch with organic mulch.
- Control weeds. Mulching will help do this, but you may have to do some shallow weeding, especially during the first two months of growth.
- Water regularly (about once a week), up to 18 inches deep. Use a soil moisture meter to test depth of watering. If the plant is stressed due to drought, the yield and size of bulbs will be lessened. Too much water and the bulbs may split and will not cure properly. Discontinue watering when the tops begin to fall over.
- When the tops begin to fall over, harvest.
Harvesting and Storage of Garlic
- When the tops start to turn yellow and are falling over, it’s time to harvest. (If the bulbs are harvested too late, they will not cure or store well).Use a garden fork to lift the bulbs from the ground.
- Do not cut the tops off. Put the bulbs with the stems still attached in a shady and warm area for a couple of weeks. When the skin of the garlic resembles paper (onion skin), and the roots are dry, it’s almost time to store them. Remove any dry soil from the bulbs but do it carefully so as not to bruise or damage the bulb. Use the stems to braid the garlic into ropes. Store them in a cool (around 40F), dry space. Do not freeze.
- Keep the largest bulbs for next year’s plants. Separate the cloves. Each clove will produce a bulb next year.
- Garlic can also be planted in spring, especially in the south.
The copyright of the article Garlic: Love It or Hate It! in Desert/Water-wise Gardens is owned by Robert Dailey. Permission to republish Garlic: Love It or Hate It! in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
