Desert/Water-wise Gardens
- The Case of The Dead Patchouli
- Vitex as Insect Repellant
- Organic Pest Controls
- Right Angle Challenged
- Gardening Websites
- May Waterwise Gardening Jobs
- Spring Waterwise Gardening Chores
- New Rain Monitors Save Money
- Pinyon Care
- Planting before Last Frost
The Case of The Dead Patchouli
Posted by
Robert Dailey
Robert Dailey
I didn't mean to kill it. I had good intentions, and just wanted it to look nice.
I love to give my wife and daughters plants as gifts. Mainly for selfish reasons. The plants usually languish on some table or corner somewhere, until I can “rescue” them and blend them into my landscape.
So the patchouli plant was great. It smelled so good, and my wife loves incense. I planted it in front of my miniature bamboo. I see my garden with the same eye as I think an artist would paint a canvas, carefully matching colors, textures, sizes, aroma, dinensions.
I realized that the patchouli was placed too close to the bamboo. For two reasons.
One, I wanted it closer to the pathway, so that a casual brush against it, or a stirring breeze, could waft the scent up to the passer by.
Two, I needed another plant, taller than the patchouli, something with darker and broader leaves.
Therefore, I dug up the happy patchouli and moved it about two feet forward in the bed.
My wife walked out into the garden to pick a ripe tomato or two. And saw the wilted patchouli, splayed out over the mulch like a drunken cowboy.
And she was not happy.
“My patchouli,” she sputtered. “What happened? What did you do?”
I did the honorable thing. I blamed it on Leon, our exuberant boxer, who was recently reprimanded for destroying a newly planted rhododendron with natural urea.
Somehow, though, I think she really knows I committed the murder. First of all, she knows that Leon, as smart as he is, lacks opposing thumbs and therefore would have a very difficult time transplanting the patchouli plant. And secondly, I answered too fast. Any rookie cop would have noticed immediately how quickly I answered her question, as though I had already prepared an alibi.
By the way, I'm heading out to the nursery tomorrow to find another patchouli plant.
So the patchouli plant was great. It smelled so good, and my wife loves incense. I planted it in front of my miniature bamboo. I see my garden with the same eye as I think an artist would paint a canvas, carefully matching colors, textures, sizes, aroma, dinensions.
I realized that the patchouli was placed too close to the bamboo. For two reasons.
One, I wanted it closer to the pathway, so that a casual brush against it, or a stirring breeze, could waft the scent up to the passer by.
Two, I needed another plant, taller than the patchouli, something with darker and broader leaves.
Therefore, I dug up the happy patchouli and moved it about two feet forward in the bed.
My wife walked out into the garden to pick a ripe tomato or two. And saw the wilted patchouli, splayed out over the mulch like a drunken cowboy.
And she was not happy.
“My patchouli,” she sputtered. “What happened? What did you do?”
I did the honorable thing. I blamed it on Leon, our exuberant boxer, who was recently reprimanded for destroying a newly planted rhododendron with natural urea.
Somehow, though, I think she really knows I committed the murder. First of all, she knows that Leon, as smart as he is, lacks opposing thumbs and therefore would have a very difficult time transplanting the patchouli plant. And secondly, I answered too fast. Any rookie cop would have noticed immediately how quickly I answered her question, as though I had already prepared an alibi.
By the way, I'm heading out to the nursery tomorrow to find another patchouli plant.
Posted by
Robert Dailey
Robert Dailey
Using vitex leaves, water and some soap can repel a number of unwanted insects and larvae
In parts of the tropics, vitex (Vitex agnus-castus)leaves are used as a repellant for armyworm, diamondback moth, hairy caterpillar, rice leaf folder, rice stem borer, and semi-looper, among others.
Here’s how to make it:
Tools and Supplies
Although the mixture should not have any effect on humans, some people may develop a slight rash. Therefore, it is necessary to use proper safety precautions, just as you would for any substance.
Here’s how to make it:
Tools and Supplies
- ¼ kg (1/2 pound) of vitex leaves
- Two liters (4.2 pints) of water
- 1 ml (1/2 teaspoon) of liquid soap
- A pot to steep the mixture
- A strainer
- A spray bottle
- Soak the leaves overnight in about a half liter of water. The next day, bring the mixture to a boil and boil for a half hour.
- Let it stand until room temperature and then strain the liquid.
- Back into the pot, add the remaining liter and a half of water, then the soap. Mix well.
- Place the mixture into a spray bottle and spray infested plants. Make sure you spray thoroughly, getting under leaves and on stems as well as over the top of leaves.
Although the mixture should not have any effect on humans, some people may develop a slight rash. Therefore, it is necessary to use proper safety precautions, just as you would for any substance.
- Clean all utensils well after brewing.
- Wear protective clothing, safety glasses and breathing mask before applying.
- Wear rubber gloves when brewing the mixture and when handling it.
- Keep out of reach of children and pets.
- Harvest fruit before spraying.
- Use a potash-based soap.
- Remember to wash hands after handling.
Posted by
Robert Dailey
Robert Dailey
Organic materials are replacing environmentally unsafe chemicals in controlling garden pests, fungi and weeds.
Microbes, insecticides and repellants made from plant extracts and even certain naturally occurring minerals are being used to control unwanted pests.
Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), Bacillus subtilis, Gliocladium virens and Saccharopolyspora spinosa are microbial bacteria which affect a variety of pests. Each acts in different ways in killing or preventing pests from damaging vegetation.
Insecticidal soaps works well in killing a wide variety of insects, including aphids, grasshoppers, earwigs, leafhoppers, mealybugs, mites, sawfly larvae and spider mites, to name just a few.
Horticultural oils, mostly made from Neem oil, kill small, soft-bodied insects.
Pyrethrum and pyrethrins are chemicals extracted from chrysanthemums. D-limonene is an element in citrus oil. Diatomaceous earth consists of finely ground shells of fossilized creatures called diatoms.
Corn gluten is a byproduct of the corn milling process and in some studies, has a significant impact on weeds.
Boric acid is a natural compound and is often the “secret” ingredient in many insecticides.
Nicotine comes from the tobacco plant, of course. Pure nicotine is highly toxic to mammals. However it works extremely well against aphids, leaf hoppers, white flies and thrips.
Rotenone is an extract of the Derris plant, which is native to South America. Used to control aphids, caterpillars and some beetles, it is harmless to plants, moderately harmful to mammals and highly toxic to fish.
Suggested reading:
Plant-Derived Pesticides
Organic Pest Controls
Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), Bacillus subtilis, Gliocladium virens and Saccharopolyspora spinosa are microbial bacteria which affect a variety of pests. Each acts in different ways in killing or preventing pests from damaging vegetation.
Insecticidal soaps works well in killing a wide variety of insects, including aphids, grasshoppers, earwigs, leafhoppers, mealybugs, mites, sawfly larvae and spider mites, to name just a few.
Horticultural oils, mostly made from Neem oil, kill small, soft-bodied insects.
Pyrethrum and pyrethrins are chemicals extracted from chrysanthemums. D-limonene is an element in citrus oil. Diatomaceous earth consists of finely ground shells of fossilized creatures called diatoms.
Corn gluten is a byproduct of the corn milling process and in some studies, has a significant impact on weeds.
Boric acid is a natural compound and is often the “secret” ingredient in many insecticides.
Nicotine comes from the tobacco plant, of course. Pure nicotine is highly toxic to mammals. However it works extremely well against aphids, leaf hoppers, white flies and thrips.
Rotenone is an extract of the Derris plant, which is native to South America. Used to control aphids, caterpillars and some beetles, it is harmless to plants, moderately harmful to mammals and highly toxic to fish.
Suggested reading:
Plant-Derived Pesticides
Organic Pest Controls
Posted by
Robert Dailey
Robert Dailey
Some folks take to do-it-yourself projects naturally. On the other hand, some of us are truly incapable.
I can’t help it…I’m an incorrigible do-it-yourselfer. I wouldn’t recognize a right angle if it came up and bit me, if right angles actually bite.
A case in point: when I was about nine, I wanted a pet rabbit. I can’t remember exactly why I wanted or needed a rabbit. I do remember telling telling my dad that rabbit manure was great for his garden. He already knew, I'm sure, that the amount of fertilizer created by one rabbit (even a very productive one) would be limited for my father’s extensive vegetable garden. My dad said I could have one, if I could build a rabbit hutch.
I went to work. First, I sketched it. Well, sort of sketched it. The drawing was more in my head than on paper.
Two days later, it was finished. I thought it looked pretty good, although it had a little trouble standing upright. I nailed a small extension onto the short leg which gave it a lot more stability.
“How did you measure the angles, son?"
“Just figured them out in my head, Dad,” I said proudly.
Two days later, I got my rabbit.
Year later, rummaging around in the barn, I came across some two by fours nailed together and wrapped in chicken wire. My rabbit hutch. There wasn’t a right angle anywhere on the contraption.
Decades later, and I’m afraid I haven’t learned much more about carpentry. I think that’s why I love gardening…I can hide so many horrible mistakes...and I don’t have to do right angles.
A case in point: when I was about nine, I wanted a pet rabbit. I can’t remember exactly why I wanted or needed a rabbit. I do remember telling telling my dad that rabbit manure was great for his garden. He already knew, I'm sure, that the amount of fertilizer created by one rabbit (even a very productive one) would be limited for my father’s extensive vegetable garden. My dad said I could have one, if I could build a rabbit hutch.
I went to work. First, I sketched it. Well, sort of sketched it. The drawing was more in my head than on paper.
Two days later, it was finished. I thought it looked pretty good, although it had a little trouble standing upright. I nailed a small extension onto the short leg which gave it a lot more stability.
“How did you measure the angles, son?"
“Just figured them out in my head, Dad,” I said proudly.
Two days later, I got my rabbit.
Year later, rummaging around in the barn, I came across some two by fours nailed together and wrapped in chicken wire. My rabbit hutch. There wasn’t a right angle anywhere on the contraption.
Decades later, and I’m afraid I haven’t learned much more about carpentry. I think that’s why I love gardening…I can hide so many horrible mistakes...and I don’t have to do right angles.
Posted by
Robert Dailey
Robert Dailey
Need to find something about gardening? Here are some great websites to help you.
Looking for a gardening website? Here are some that should help you.This is by no means an exhaustive list. That would take hundreds of pages. These sites will lead you however to other gardening and gardening-related sites.
General
General
- U. S. http://www.gardenweb.com/
- Australia http://www.au.gardenweb.com/
- Europe http://www.uk.gardenweb.com/
- Ohio State University http://webgarden.osu.edu/
- Canada http://www.icangarden.com/
- Botany http://botany.suite101.com/
- Cacti and Succulents http://www.cactus-mall.com/
- Rhododendrons http://www.lib.virginia.edu/brown/sciscan/rhododendrons/ran9904/rhodo.htm
- Flower Gardens http://flowergardens.suite101.com/
- Biological control http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/ent/biocontrol/
- Ohio State Horticulture http://hcs.osu.edu/
- Landscaping http://flowergardens.suite101.com/
- Texas Aggie Horticulture http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/
- Gardens and Collections Library http://dir.gardenweb.com/directory/d-home.html
- Organic gardens http://organicgardens.suite101.com/
- Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center http://www.wildflower.org/
- American Public Gardens Association http://www.publicgardens.org/
- Plants and Bulbs http://plantsbulbs.suite101.com/
- I Love Plants http://www.iloveplants.com/
- American Bamboo Society http://www.bamboo.org
- American Camellia Society http://www.camellias-acs.com
- Vegetable Gardens http://vegetablegardens.suite101.com/
- Composting Council http://www.compostingsociety.org
- Water Gardens http://watergardens.suite101.com/
- National Arbor Day Foundation http://arborday.org
- Desert and Waterwise Gardens http://desertwaterwisegardens.suite101.com/
- California http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/calif/
- Florida http://www.floridagardener.com/
- Florida http://www.floridaplants.com/
- Great Lakes area http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/grtlks/
- Louisiana Gardener http://www.louisianagardener.com/
- Metro New York http://www.nygardener.com/
- Italy http://www.uk.gardenweb.com/forums/italia/
- Sweden http://www.uk.gardenweb.com/forums/sverige/
- Timber Press http://www.timberpress.com/index.cfm
- National Gardening Association http://assoc.garden.org/b2b/index.php?q=show&id=2264
- New Society Publishers http://www.newsociety.com/bookid/3901
- Amazon http://www.amazon.com/
- Baarnes & Noble http://www.barnesandnoble.com/
- Hastings http://www.hastingsentertainment.com/catalog/
- Hortus http://www.hortus.co.uk/
- Amateurs Digest http://www.theamateursdigest.com/
- Northern Gardener http://www.northerngardener.org/
- Canadian Gardening http://articles.canadiangardening.com/mochasofa/client/en/publication/home.asp?id=14
- Jardinage http://www.jardinage.net/index.py
- Fruit Gardener http://www.crfg.org/fg/
- GardenGate http://www.gardengatemagazine.com/
- Japanese Garden Journal http://www.rothteien.com/
- Plants http://www.plants-magazine.com/
- NSF Center for Integrated Pest Management http://cipm.ncsu.edu/
- Biological Control Information Center http://cipm.ncsu.edu/ent/biocontrol/
- North Carolina Entomological Society http://cipm.ncsu.edu/ent/ncentsoc/
- South African National Biological Institute http://www.sanbi.org/
- Glossary of Botanical Terms http://glossary.gardenweb.com/glossary/
- Waterwise Garden Glossary http://desertgardens.suite101.com/article.cfm/desert_garden_glossary
- Hortiplex http://hortiplex.gardenweb.com/plants/
- Multi-Lingual Gardening Sites http://www.uk.gardenweb.com/forums/
Posted by
Robert Dailey
Robert Dailey
Different USDA (or Swedish Fuchsia Society) zones require different chores for May.
Gardeners living in USDA Zones 6 through 11(or in the European equivalent) have an assortment of jobs to do now.
- Prune flowering shrubs after flowers begin to fade. Don’t be squeamish. This will promote new healthy growth and improve the general health of the plant.
- Continue pinching back flowers until mid-June. This will give you more blooms which will be more uniform in size.
- Deadhead and remove fading leaves from spring-blooming plants. These can harbor insects or, more probably fungi, which can then infest the entire plant.
- Take softwood cuttings (or layered cuttings) from trees and shrubs to make new plants. Use a rooting hormone before replanting. Also make sure the tools you use are sterile.
- Remove any fruit that has fallen beneath trees. This prevents insects from taking up residence there and laying eggs. It also keeps hungry animals from being attracted to the area.
- Look under rose leaves. Rose slugs love to hide here, and they can cause serious damage to your roses.
- Check for infestations of scale on euonymus and pachysandra.
- You can now move houseplants outside.
- In lower zones (6 and 7) plant tomatoes outside now. In higher zones (2-5), make sure your tomatoes are kept watered.
- In zones 8 -11, your tomatoes should be already in the ground.
- Remember to mulch all your plants. This helps retain moisture, discourages weeds, and keeps the soil at a more constant temperature.
- Sterilize your pruning shears often.
- Attend gardening seminars and lectures at local nurseries.
Spring Waterwise Gardening Chores
Posted by
Robert Dailey
Robert Dailey
Warm weather means greening up and, no matter where the gardener lives, May is a gardening month.
The sun is warming stones (and compost piles). It’s also warming the earth itself in many climes.
In Zones 6 through 11, last frost date has already passed. However, last frost date for much of the world (Zones 2 through 5) is upon us and it’s time to start getting some plants in the ground. (Zone 1 includes the Artic Circle in the Northern Hemisphere, and last frost date there is June 15. Of course, first frost date there is July 1, providing a tiny window for summer gardening.)
If you live in Zones 2 to 5, it’s time to:
In Zones 6 through 11, last frost date has already passed. However, last frost date for much of the world (Zones 2 through 5) is upon us and it’s time to start getting some plants in the ground. (Zone 1 includes the Artic Circle in the Northern Hemisphere, and last frost date there is June 15. Of course, first frost date there is July 1, providing a tiny window for summer gardening.)
If you live in Zones 2 to 5, it’s time to:
- Plant warm weather crops now.
- Sow melon and squash seeds. Don’t put in the ground until the last part of the month to discourage pests like squash bugs and borers.
- Begin pinching back annuals and perennials to make more blooms
- Prune evergreens now
- Prune stone fruit blooms (cherry, almond, peach, nectarine, plums) at bloom time. This will produce larger, more succulent fruit.
- Stake tall perennials.
- Remove azalea galls. These are fungal and will turn white and explode spores. Prune the azaleas before they turn white.
- Clean and maintain your garden tools.
- Attend gardening seminars. Many nurseries sponsor lectures, presented by plant experts, master gardeners, plant pathologists or other knowledgeable persons. They are generally free, or at minimal charge.
Posted by
Robert Dailey
Robert Dailey
These monitors not only measure rainfall, but they regulate irrigation systems automatically: all for less than $15.
Gardeners can save money and conserve water by using a newly-developed rain monitor.
The new Vigoro automatic rain monitor works in conjunction with any electronic water timer, sprinkler, soaker hose or drip watering system. In addition to measuring rainfall, it can shut off the systems when enough rain comes down.
It requires no batteries. Gravity and water pressure are the keys to operating the monitor. Gardeners can add it to their irrigation system quickly and easily.
No batteries? No external power source? What runs it?
It’s so simple, that gardeners will wonder why someone hasn’t thought of it before.
When enough rainfall occurs, a float inside the monitor lifts up and closes the water path between the water source and the system, shutting off the flow. It doesn’t need complicated adjustments or settings. In fact, it doesn’t need them.
It’s small
The rain monitor is 4.5 inches wide, 6 inches long and 2.5 inches high.
There are no replaceable parts.
Made completely of plastic, the little rain monitor and regulator will last about two years and has no moving parts except for the inside float, and the couplings at either end.
Cost? One major chain is offering the Vigoro Rain Monitor for $14.97, which is really inexpensive.
Related articles of interest:
The new Vigoro automatic rain monitor works in conjunction with any electronic water timer, sprinkler, soaker hose or drip watering system. In addition to measuring rainfall, it can shut off the systems when enough rain comes down.
It requires no batteries. Gravity and water pressure are the keys to operating the monitor. Gardeners can add it to their irrigation system quickly and easily.
No batteries? No external power source? What runs it?
It’s so simple, that gardeners will wonder why someone hasn’t thought of it before.
When enough rainfall occurs, a float inside the monitor lifts up and closes the water path between the water source and the system, shutting off the flow. It doesn’t need complicated adjustments or settings. In fact, it doesn’t need them.
It’s small
The rain monitor is 4.5 inches wide, 6 inches long and 2.5 inches high.
There are no replaceable parts.
Made completely of plastic, the little rain monitor and regulator will last about two years and has no moving parts except for the inside float, and the couplings at either end.
Cost? One major chain is offering the Vigoro Rain Monitor for $14.97, which is really inexpensive.
Related articles of interest:
Posted by
Robert Dailey
Robert Dailey
Adult pinyons are hardy, trees, tolerant of sun, wind, predation and drought. However, they are difficult to start as seedlings.
Pinyons are native to southwestern (and western) North America. In the U.S. they span from California to Texas, and from Wyoming to New Mexico.
In Mexico, they span most of the country, but are more prevalent in the northern states of Taumalipas, Nuevo Leon, Coahulla, Chihuahua, Sonora and Baja Norte.
Generally growing in higher elevations but they can also be found in lower areas.
The adult trees are long-lived and slow-growing, impervious to dessicating winds and blazing sun of arid regions, and are xerophytic.
However, the seedlings are tender, need to be grown in dappled shade or on eastern or northern hillsides, or on the eastern or norther sides of structures.
They also need regular watering, but, are sensitive to too much irrigation. They need to be protected from animal damage, because chipmunks, porcupines and mule deer love the tender needles.
It takes about a year of care to establish a pinyon seedling.
The seedlings love well-drained soil, but don't do well in heavy clay soils.
Articles about the care and planting of pinyon seedlings, as well as pinyon diseases and insect enemies can be found at the sites below.
Read about care of pinyons here:
Planting and Caring for Pinyons
Pinyon Insect Enemies
Pinyon, The Edible Pine
In Mexico, they span most of the country, but are more prevalent in the northern states of Taumalipas, Nuevo Leon, Coahulla, Chihuahua, Sonora and Baja Norte.
Generally growing in higher elevations but they can also be found in lower areas.
The adult trees are long-lived and slow-growing, impervious to dessicating winds and blazing sun of arid regions, and are xerophytic.
However, the seedlings are tender, need to be grown in dappled shade or on eastern or northern hillsides, or on the eastern or norther sides of structures.
They also need regular watering, but, are sensitive to too much irrigation. They need to be protected from animal damage, because chipmunks, porcupines and mule deer love the tender needles.
It takes about a year of care to establish a pinyon seedling.
The seedlings love well-drained soil, but don't do well in heavy clay soils.
Articles about the care and planting of pinyon seedlings, as well as pinyon diseases and insect enemies can be found at the sites below.
Read about care of pinyons here:
Planting and Caring for Pinyons
Pinyon Insect Enemies
Pinyon, The Edible Pine
Posted by
Robert Dailey
Robert Dailey
So I planted my seedlings a little early. I’ve got a plan!
In my last report, I had planted my little hardened seedlings before the USDA last frost date for my area.
Now, local weathermen are predicting a hard freeze tomorrow night. Sure! They’ve been wrong before. Just because I might have jumped the gun a little. I’m convinced it’s a conspiracy to deal a coup de grace to all us gardeners who are already near death with winter cabin fever.
Who cares if the weathermen are right and I planted about a month too soon. I’ve got a plan. It’s worked before…well, it almost worked before (I suppose I’ve jumped the gun a couple of times in the past. Okay, more than a couple. Okay, okay, a lot of times. But my heart is in the right place.)
I’m refining my technique. Of course, I refuse to buy all those fancy water towers that go over the plants and protect them from frosts. I’ve got my own methods.
Last year, I planted several dozen tomato plants, along with several bean varieties, eggplant, cucumbers, cantaloupes, bell and jalapeno peppers and a few other things. Using my exceptional method of getting past the last frost, I actually saved two of my tomato plants, and at least one eggplant. Maybe the rest of the plants didn’t make it. I never had much success with cantaloupes anyway.
Now, local weathermen are predicting a hard freeze tomorrow night. Sure! They’ve been wrong before. Just because I might have jumped the gun a little. I’m convinced it’s a conspiracy to deal a coup de grace to all us gardeners who are already near death with winter cabin fever.
Who cares if the weathermen are right and I planted about a month too soon. I’ve got a plan. It’s worked before…well, it almost worked before (I suppose I’ve jumped the gun a couple of times in the past. Okay, more than a couple. Okay, okay, a lot of times. But my heart is in the right place.)
I’m refining my technique. Of course, I refuse to buy all those fancy water towers that go over the plants and protect them from frosts. I’ve got my own methods.
Last year, I planted several dozen tomato plants, along with several bean varieties, eggplant, cucumbers, cantaloupes, bell and jalapeno peppers and a few other things. Using my exceptional method of getting past the last frost, I actually saved two of my tomato plants, and at least one eggplant. Maybe the rest of the plants didn’t make it. I never had much success with cantaloupes anyway.
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